How to Alter a Pattern for Tight Shoulders
Shoulder tightness is a common issue among many sewists, whether they are beginners or experienced crafters. It can be frustrating when a pattern doesn’t fit perfectly, especially if it results in tight shoulders. Altering a pattern for tight shoulders is a skill that can make a significant difference in the comfort and fit of your garments. In this article, we will discuss the steps and techniques to alter a pattern for tight shoulders, ensuring a better fit and increased comfort for the wearer.
Firstly, it’s essential to identify the source of the tightness. In most cases, the issue is located in the shoulder seam, where the fabric bunches up or the fit is too snug. To begin the alteration process, follow these steps:
1. Trace the Pattern: Before making any changes, trace the original pattern onto another sheet of paper. This will serve as a reference and allow you to make adjustments without losing the original pattern.
2. Mark the Tightness: Using a fabric marker or chalk, mark the area where the shoulder seam is tight. This will help you visualize the alteration process and ensure that the adjustment is made in the correct location.
3. Calculate the Adjustment: Measure the excess fabric around the shoulder area. For a standard alteration, you may need to add 1/2 to 1 inch (1.25 to 2.5 cm) to the shoulder seam. However, this can vary depending on the severity of the tightness and the desired fit.
4. Draw the New Shoulder Seam: Starting from the marked tightness area, draw a new shoulder seam line. Ensure that the new line is straight and follows the natural curve of the shoulder. If necessary, you can also add a slight curve to the new seam line to accommodate the natural movement of the shoulder.
5. Adjust the Armhole Depth: To further improve the fit, you may need to adjust the armhole depth. Trace the armhole curve and then draw a new, slightly deeper armhole. This will provide more room for the arm to move freely.
6. Redraw the Armhole Opening: After adjusting the armhole depth, redraw the armhole opening to match the new depth. Ensure that the armhole opening is wide enough to accommodate the arm without causing discomfort.
7. Redraw the Collar and Sleeves: If the collar or sleeves are part of the tightness issue, redraw them to match the new shoulder and armhole measurements. This may require adjusting the collar width and sleeve length as well.
8. Test the Fit: Once you have made all the necessary adjustments, test the fit on a muslin or a fitting garment. Make any further adjustments as needed to ensure a comfortable and tailored fit.
9. Cut and Sew the Final Garment: Once you are satisfied with the fit, cut the fabric according to the altered pattern and proceed with sewing the garment.
By following these steps, you can successfully alter a pattern for tight shoulders and create a garment that fits comfortably and flatters your body. Remember that practice makes perfect, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t perfect. With time and experience, you will become more skilled at altering patterns and achieving the perfect fit for your garments.
