How to Alter Jacket Shoulders
Shoulder alterations are a common and essential part of tailoring a jacket to fit perfectly. Whether you’ve purchased a jacket that’s slightly too small or you’re looking to give a pre-owned piece a new lease on life, adjusting the shoulders can make a significant difference in the overall fit and comfort of the garment. In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of how to alter jacket shoulders, ensuring that your jacket fits like it was made just for you.
First and foremost, it’s important to gather the necessary tools and materials before beginning the alteration process. You’ll need a pair of sharp scissors, a tailor’s chalk, a measuring tape, pins, and a seam ripper. Additionally, if you’re planning to make significant changes, it’s a good idea to have a pattern or a well-fitting jacket as a reference.
Step 1: Assess the Adjustment Needed
Before diving into the alteration, take a moment to assess the amount of adjustment required. Measure the current shoulder width of the jacket and compare it to your own shoulder width. If the jacket is too wide, you’ll need to take in the shoulders; if it’s too narrow, you’ll need to let them out. Keep in mind that a small adjustment can often be made by simply taking in the seam, while larger adjustments may require re-cutting the shoulder area.
Step 2: Mark the Adjustment Lines
Using your tailor’s chalk, mark the adjustment lines on the jacket. For taking in the shoulders, draw a line from the shoulder seam down to the underarm seam. For letting out the shoulders, draw a line from the shoulder seam up to the underarm seam. Ensure that these lines are straight and even.
Step 3: Remove the Seam Allowance
Using your seam ripper, carefully remove the seam allowance from the marked lines. Be sure to leave a small amount of the original stitching in place to maintain the integrity of the jacket’s structure.
Step 4: Cut the Adjustment Lines
With the seam allowance removed, cut along the marked lines, being cautious not to cut through the original stitching. If you’re letting out the shoulders, you may need to cut a small triangle at the underarm to accommodate the additional fabric.
Step 5: Adjust the Shoulder Width
Now it’s time to adjust the shoulder width. For taking in the shoulders, fold the jacket in half at the center back and pin the shoulder seams together. For letting out the shoulders, spread the jacket apart at the center back and pin the shoulder seams apart. Sew the shoulder seams together, using a straight stitch and a matching thread.
Step 6: Press and Trim
Once the shoulder seams are sewn, press them open with an iron. Trim any excess fabric or threads, and you’re done!
By following these steps, you’ll be able to successfully alter jacket shoulders, resulting in a garment that fits comfortably and flatters your body. Remember that practice makes perfect, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques and adjustments to find the perfect fit for your jacket.
